There are many legends of Isola Bella: The tiny island in Lake Maggiore belonged to Italy’s storied Borromeo clan for 500 years. But more recently, it played host to Louis Vuitton’s resort show, a fantastical reimagining of one tale involving mermaids who transformed into flowers upon its shores—a notion translated by artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière into dreamy pastel gowns with blooms of organza and sweeping architectural hems, presented alongside custom-made headwear by a Roman opera atelier. After the show, the first ever hosted by the maison in Italy, other French houses followed, with Dior presenting a jewelry collection and Jacquemus opening a store. Here, tips for experiencing the region’s legendary dolce vita.
Eat
Family-run restaurant Albergo Ristorante Vapore in Torno serves the best grilled missoltini in Lake Como—with views to match, thanks to the tree-shaded terrace that sits almost at lake level.
Stay
The historic 18th-century villa, Passalacqua opened as a hotel last June, channels the Italian spirit of villeggiatura via baroque polished interiors, billowing taffeta drapes, and colorful Murano glass chandeliers.
Drink
Spend aperitivo hour at La Colombetta, a central Como spot founded by three sisters and favored by Mick Jagger and the Clooneys. Or linger longer and ask for a bottle of Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino, a hand-harvested local red.
This article appeared in the January/February 2024 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.
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