Dakar Style Is a Lived Experience
Below, Stuurman reflects on some of his favorite photographs from nearly seven years of visiting and documenting Dakar—and the inspiration behind them.
“Khadija Aisha Ba, on the left, is the founder of local fashion label L’artisane, and I shot this at Chanel’s first runway show in Africa in 2022. Khadija is one of the most stylish people in the world—her style is so consistent and bold and no one dresses like her. She borrows from the past, but with a very future-forward gaze, and that translates in a style that’s bold and expressive. She would, for example, pair a traditional Senegalese boubou with teddy bear pins and cool canvas high-tops. I love the metallic bag she’s carrying in this image, from her own collection, with that giant safety-pin handle.
The metal sculpture, on the right, was outside an official government building (or perhaps it was a bank). I loved the symbolism of the cowrie shell, as a totem of wealth and prosperity. Cowrie shells were traditionally used as currency throughout West Africa, including Senegal, and the fact that they exist as art in a public space serves as a reminder of the currency of culture and the power that exists in our hands.”
“This is the Mosque of Divinity, an architectural landmark that’s somehow both traditional and modern. It was such a peaceful space, and from the surrounding cliffs, the view over the mosque and the ocean is beautiful. I chose to pair it with this other image of Khadija from when I first met her in 2018, because the blue-greens of her turban pick up on the colors of the mosque. It’s an ode to her way with color and pattern, always unpredictable and never seen before I enjoy fashion that really turns heads, that’s unpredictable. I think that the style in Dakar is often quite playful.”
“This was shot with Khadija at Gorée Island, a short ferry ride over from Dakar. Our tour guide stopped here to tell us about the bougainvillea—seen all over Dakar—a flower we’ve all grown up with but never stopped to think about. Did you know the colorful parts are not the flower? They’re actually the leaves.
Gorée Island is a deeply complex space, because it’s an island with a long, dark history where a lot of people were enslaved. That’s also where you find the Door of No Return, which is now a museum and memorial. The island now is a UNESCO heritage site. It’s also a striking place, a sun-washed island filled with these quiet moments of beauty.”
“Mamy Tall is an architect in Dakar, and each time I visit Dakar, she takes me on these tours of its heritage buildings and precints—she is so well-informed and passionate about the heritage of Dakar and protecting it. Here, she’s standing against a building that was under construction, and they had covered it with these beautiful woven mats creating a lovely backdrop. That’s what I love about Dakar—its resourcefulness, and ability to make beauty out of everyday situations and objects. I love the symmetry between the patterns in her image and the building on the right.”
“LaToya Bianca Gerber is a model from Sierra Leone and she’s wearing a brand called Madam Wokie that creates African-inspired garments and accessories. Her dress and head wrap are both complementary and a contrast to Dakar’s rocky coastline. The building on the right is just something we were driving past and I had to ask the cab driver to stop so I could take the picture. It’s such a striking building—and I’m often confronted with these moments when driving or walking around Dakar.”
“On the left is a younger version of myself, standing in front of the African Renaissance Monument which was constructed to commemorate Senegal’s 50 years of independence from France. I think we don’t have a lot of monuments that are quite as, well, monumental on the continent. It’s a powerful piece of art that has so much symbolism, and looks forward into the into the future.