Cheetie Kumar’s Recipes for Biryani, Squash Casserole, Spiced Carrots, and More

MSNBCTV-STAFF August 27, 2024

3 2 minutes read

Chef and restaurateur Cheetie Kumar became a beloved fixture of the Raleigh, North Carolina, restaurant scene, with her community-inclusive and James Beard Award nominated Ajja, and her now-shuttered (and much-missed) restaurant Garland. Get to Ajja as soon as you can to enjoy live concerts in the backyard (Kumar herself is the guitarist in the band Birds of Avalon and co-owns a music venue with her partner), and in the meantime, indulge in flavorful lamb biryani, sumptuous summer squash casserole, a spiced carrot and whipped feta dip that’ll be the star of any party — and the clever building block recipes that will become staples in your own home.

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Lamb Biryani

Jennifer Causey / Food Styling by Margaret Monroe Dickey / Prop Styling by Nidia Cueva

“It’s like shepherd’s pie but way sexier,” says Cheetie Kumar of this stunning biryani. “If you can make coq au vin or a braised brisket, you can do this.” Though she understands that a home cook might be initially intimidated by the many steps, smart tips like buying fried onions and pre-cubed lamb cut down prep time without sacrificing a single lick of flavor.

Grilled Summer Squash Casserole

Victor Protasio

Make this Punjabi ratatouille-style casserole once, and you’ll be mad at all the months when summer squash isn’t in season. The addition of cubed paneer can easily glow up this side dish to entree status.

Spiced Carrots with Whipped Feta

Greg DuPree / Food Styling by Emily Neighbors Hall / Prop Styling by Christina Daley

Bring these spiced and caramelized carrots with tangy whipped feta to a party and you immediately rule the dip table. Urfa pepper brings smoky, sweet heat to the fore, and Kumar recommends slicing and toasting sourdough to smear it all over.

Saffron-Rosewater Milk

Jennifer Causey / Food Styling by Margaret Monroe Dickey / Prop Styling by Nidia Cueva

This quick and simple whole milk is an essential ingredient in Kumar’s biryani as well but easily pulls double duty as a flavor and moisture enhancer in a whole host of dishes. Don’t be daunted by the notoriously pricey saffron — a wisp goes a very long way.

Masala Paste

Jennifer Causey / Food Styling by Margaret Monroe Dickey / Prop Styling by Nidia Cueva

A homemade masala paste is one of the elements that lends luxurious heat to Kumar’s biryani. The meld of creamy cashews, toasted spices, and fruity Kashmiri chiles is a perfect foil for rich lamb and rice, but you’ll find yourself getting creative and using it in every dish under the sun that could use a little kick.

Spiced Yogurt Marinade

Jennifer Causey / Food Styling by Margaret Monroe Dickey / Prop Styling by Nidia Cueva

Another level of flavor comes from Kumar’s tangy yogurt marinade. Garam masala, black pepper, cumin, fennel seeds, mace, and more spices bring warmth to the mix while whole-milk yogurt breaks down the proteins in lamb, goat, chicken, and other meats to make them impossibly tender.

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